Stressed Behaviour Cat. 

Our pet cats appear to be suffering from some of the same 21 st century stresses that inflict their owners including increased leisure time, lack of exercise, relationship pressures and social over-crowding. While group living isn't responsible for all their problems it is fair to say that it is often a significant factor. There are bound to be many owners who have failed to identify with my views on feline communal living and, if you are one of them, I would consider you fortunate to have a harmonious multi-cat household.

Some cats take great pleasure in social interaction with their own species and it's always worth remembering that no two cats (or groups of cats) are the same. However, what is working for you may not be working for the same number of cats in an identical house down the street. The previous two articles tackled the questions 'Is there a problem?' and 'How can I fix it?' This month I am concentrating firmly on prevention rather than cure. Now we all know the potential pitfalls of the multi-cat household, there are steps that can be taken to increase the chances of a successful and happy household.

How to have a harmonious household.
Keep an appropriate number of cats to suit your environment. For example, if you have a two-bedroom house then five cats is probably asking for trouble. This is particularly relevant if your cats are kept exclusively indoors; your house is their entire world and everything within it becomes a potential source of competition.

• There is no 'number of cats per square meter floor space' rule but common sense should prevail.
• Every cat has a concept of his or her own personal space and any invasion leads to tension and antagonism. Cats need the ability to put a significant distance between one another.
• Choose compatible individuals such as littermates, probably brother and sister. Two males of the same age may dispute the hierarchy when they mature socially.
• Avoid extreme characters when choosing new kittens, for example, extremely nervous, confident or active cats. These may potentially be difficult cats to live with or be those that find others difficult to live with.
• Do not be under the impression that keeping kittens from your cat's litter will be company for her. Once the initial rearing process is complete she will naturally be ready to say goodbye and when her offspring reach sexual maturity there could be problems.
• Try not to constantly add to a stable social group. Every household has a 'one cat too many' number and you may be pushing your luck. If you have a happy threesome I would strongly recommend you keep it that way.

If you do decide to add an adult cat to your group, choose individuals that show a history of being sociable to other cats. Avoid those that have been given up for adoption because of indoor soiling/ spraying/anxiety-related problems. Sadly, many cats enter rescue centers with very little information regarding their past experiences. Acquiring a second-hand adult cat always represents a degree of risk.

I have noticed that entire male strays can appear really gentle and irresistible, until they have their paws firmly under the table. They frequently enter cat lovers' homes as passive or rather poorly specimens but, once fit and well-fed, wreak havoc on their fellow feline residents. These cats, even after castration, do not do well when living with others but they usually make great single pets!

• Avoid having too many highly intelligent and sensitive pedigrees together. They can be extremely territorial and competitive with each other, particularly breeds such as Burmese, Bengal and Siamese.
• Remember the importance of feline friendly resources and start by giving a three-dimensional aspect to your home. Provide plenty of high resting places to enable any cat to observe activity from a safe area.
• Private places are also extremely important; every cat, no matter how sociable, needs time out to enjoy moments of solitude. Wardrobes and cupboards are ideal and there should be plenty of choice to enable all members of the group to have their own favourite place.
• If your home is in a densely cat populated area try to avoid having too many cats yourself. Cats are sensitive to overcrowding and can easily feel stressed, even if your multi-cat household consists of only two cats.
• Provide dry food for grazing throughout the day or divide it into several smaller meals to avoid any sense of competition if food is only available at certain times. Consider designating several areas within the home as 'feeding stations' to avoid bullying at mealtimes.
• Place several water bowls throughout the home so that they have a choice of where to drink. This should also encourage your cats to drink more frequently and this will help to guard against urinary tract problems. Cats often find water more attractive if it is found in a different place to their food.
• Ensure there are plenty of scratching posts as an alternative to your furniture! Cats will scratch for both claw maintenance and territorial reasons and there will be an increased need to signal to others in a multi-cat environment. These scratching posts should be located near doors, cat beds and feeding areas to ensure an appropriate surface is available in areas of potential competition.
• Beds or sleeping spots in warm places are - in your cats' eyes - well worth defending so ensure there's enough for everyone.

Even if your cats have access to outdoors it is still advisable to provide indoor litter facilities. If there is any bullying going on outside then your cats will always have the choice to toilet in comparative safety inside. Providing one tray per cat plus one in a different location inside is an important formula if you already have a soiling problem in your home or a cat with a history of urinary tract disease. However, prevention is better than cure and ensuring the availability of a number of litter trays could help to avoid problems in the future.



Introducing a new kitten.
There will still be occasions when you wish to add to your group and the method of introduction is important to ensure the newcomer is accepted. Here are a few basic tips:

• Set up a kitten pen in a room where your existing cat spends little time. This will prevent any resentment towards the newcomer for 'acquiring' important territory within the home. This pen can then be moved throughout the house to rooms where your cat does spend time.
• Allow the kitten to play loose in the room when the other cat is not around.
• Feed the new kitten in the pen and the established cat a reasonable distance away so that both feel comfortable eating in the presence of the other.
• At first, feed the cats at opposite ends of a room, and then encourage the cats to eat side by side by reducing the distance between the bowls by small amounts daily.
• Exchange bedding between the two to allow them to become familiar with one another's scent. . Give fuss and attention to the existing cat but do not exceed the amount that he finds enjoyable!
• Allow a couple of weeks before opening the pen and letting the cats get to know each other.
• It's important to keep calm when the two parties are first introduced and not to interfere if the older cat decides to put the youngster in his place. Keep a cushion or pillow handy to place between them just in case things do not go according to plan (never separate cats by using your own body parts).
• Be patient - a bit of extra effort at the beginning can make a lifetime of difference to a relationship.

Introducing a new adult cat.
Confinement in a kitten pet can be quite distressing for an adult cat. If you adopt an older cat I recommend that it is kept in a single room first, rather than a cage. The existing cat should then be introduced gradually by following three basic steps:

Scent - your cat should first be aware of the scent of a new cat. Cats have glands around their heads that secrete a pheromone that signals a positive message of security and familiarity. The new cat's scent can be 'collected' and deposited in areas where the existing cat is housed and vice versa (see panel below).

Sight - your cat should then be able to see the new cat before he is able to have physical contact. A wire frame to fit within the door surround can be useful for this purpose if you think introductions may be difficult.

Touch - physical contact can then be established after a reasonable period of time, providing that you manage introductions carefully.

_{source Your Cat Mag.}